PLEASE NOTE: Click on the tutorial and then SCROLL DOWN! I have TONS of information on this site, and you must SCROLL DOWN to see it!
~ Welcome to my Finishing Tutorial Blog ~
It is my sincere pleasure to help fellow Stitchers learn how to finish their projects beautifully. Literally, thousands of people have used my tutorials with stunning results. My tutorials are complete, simple to follow and written for all learning levels and all learning types. I use a step by step format with written word and pictures that is appropriate for VISUAL learners as well as LITERAL learners. Everything is as correct, as concise and as perfect as I can make them.
I am currently also adding VIDEO tutorials to my website. I have a channel on YouTube and will add video tutorials as often as I can. It is my goal to teach as many people as I can to be proficient and at ease with finishing their cross stitch. I've had great positive feedback about my new video tutorials. Thank you!
PLEASE read through the tutorial(s) several times before striking out and cutting into your stitching project. The old adage: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE is so very important.
Practice makes perfect.
*I am gradually adding DIFFICULTY levels to all tutorials as it has been recommended to me by my readers.
Something that you can do for me: many use me for my tutorials and I see finishes all over the web that are clearly made using them. I give them FREELY for anyone to use at any time because I want to be known for generosity and helping others. However, if you come to use my tutorials, or if you have been sent here by a link to them and enjoy them, please give my name credit and visit me at my personal blog.
Don't you think that is a fair trade?
I do and that is all I ask.
I have lots of stories to tell and ideas to share. Come and visit me, leave a comment or two, it makes me happy!
My personal blog ~ The Twisted Stitcher ~ can be found: HERE
My sincere thanks,
The Twisted Stitcher
P.S. I have lots of tutorials on this blog. Please, click on the link tabs below and remember to SCROLL DOWN... I update frequently enhancing them as I can ~ to help you better!
The key to making the tight waves on the felt is: to make sure your wave blade touches the top of the "waves" on the layer above it when you are cutting the layer below it. That's how you gauge the distance from one felt to the other and to get the "tight" waves as show above: make sure the wave blade touches the tip of the waves.
The cording is the green floss and the pink floss twisted together using my Krenik cording drill to make the candy cane stripe cording. To make two color cording, first read through my tutorial The Cording...
To make two color cording you are going to take 2-6 strands of the first color - and cut lengths of the floss that are 4x's the outer circumference of the area you want. To do this: all you have to do is take the ornament, and the floss and holding the end of the floss at the corner go around the outside of the ornament with the floss (loosely) to get the length - do that 4 times, cut the floss ~ this is the length you need of both colors. Cut how ever many lengths of each color (in equal amounts) I would suggest cutting at least 3 lengths of each color. Separate the colors into two lengths (matched ends) Take color number one. Fold in half so that all the ends are together. Make a knot. Take color number too, taking the ends of color #2 slip through the circle of color #1. Then match the ends of color number two together and knot the ends. This will give you both colors in circles tied together. Take color #1 and attach to the cup hook on your corder. Knot end at the corder cup hook. Either have a mounted cup hook somewhere on a wall or have a person hold the knotted end of color #2.
Begin twisting as in the tutorial link above and follow all the steps as outlined in the tutorial above.
Ribbon/Chenille/Twine/Cording (whatever you want to make into a bow)
take your ribbon and make your first "leg" of the bow.
make the second "leg" of a bow. This sort of like making a pretzel. Now "play" with it. Is the loops the right size? Are they equal? Does it look good? Cut your ribbon off the bolt now.
thread a needle and knot the end (this is good to have read and waiting) and come up from the back.
Begin to wrap it around the center.
Hold the bow firmly and wrap the tread around the center, pulling FIRMLY to pinch the center of the bow.
Take a couple of small stitches through the ribbon and under the circling wrapped threads and end off; cut thread.
Hey look! It's a bow!!
ATTACHING IT TO YOUR PROJECTS...
flat (hard) projects: (like ornaments, flatfolds, wallhangings, etc.) I like to put a straight pin straight through the middle, place one drop of glue on the spot that you want it on your piece. And push it in - I use the small hammer in the background there so that my fingers don't get sore and bloody (believe me- it happens!)
Soft projects (like pillow ornaments, felt layered ornaments, etc) I actually will not cut off my thread and sew the bow in place on the project.
No matter how you do it: You'll have perfect bows every time!
If you want a cluster bows...just either make two bows and sew them together at the center or make TWO "legs" on each side of the center and go on as above. That makes bows that look similar to this one:
DIFFICULTY LEVEL: EXPERIENCED PLEASE REMEMBER:read through the tutorial a number of times to familiarize yourself with the steps BEFORE cutting or starting the process of finishing! Supplies Needed:
Large Quadrant Ruler
Spray Tacky Glue
White Tacky Glue
Grommets and a Crop-o-Dile
Twine or Cording
The Tag ornament (originally posted 12/5/14) has become a very popular finish on the web. It is important to note however it is most suitable for smaller sized projects (in most cases) as the tag can become very large in size. Why? because we are incrementally making it larger with each "layer" please keep this in mind as you determine if it is the correct finish for your project. Step 1:
Measure your stitched piece to determine the size of the top layer of tag ornament.
You can see that a 3 x 3 inch ornament will fit the design nicely in this case, leaving a very narrow margin along the mounting edge. This is what we want for a tag ornament.
PLEASE NOTE: doNOTcut at the margin line, that is simply the size of mounting board we are going to cut. PLEASE leave at least 1 inch of fabric around the design from the edge of the stitching on all sides for the mounting process.
Make your plan... I like to draw out my thoughts including sizes for a visual reference on a scrap piece of paper.
Cut your top layer mat board (mine is 3 x 3 inches as described above ~ YOURS will be what you have determined). Spray lightly with Aleene's Tacky Spray glue (available at any craft/hobby store or Wal-Mart).
and put a layer of cotton batting on the mat board and trim to edge of mat board
Step 4: Mount your stitching and glue the sides to back (see comment above in Step One about margins!) with White Tacky Glue
*helpful hint for finishing pros* I put my glue upside down in a large mouth mason jar to always keep it ready for use rather than having to shake it down multiple times and squeezing. Saves my hands and joints!
Cut the "tag" pieces. You will need two pieces the same size for front and back of the tag.
As per my blueprints above in STEP ONE mine is: 4 x 5 inches
Using a ruler find a "center" for your tag, mark the center area. Since mine is 4 inches wide, I use a center space of 2 inches. You change this center space according to your own personal measurements and projects.
*Please follow the steps outlined below in words and pictures for making your tag perfectly matching on both the front and back.
then, rotate 90 degrees and make a mark on the side corner 1 inch down from top edge on both sides.
You will have something looking like this:
Taking a straight edge match the edge of the corner marks
draw a line:
Now cut! Now this will be your corner template for all the other corners so that all corners match on your tag. *Please View the following photos to understand the "template" theory:
You will end up with two "tag" pieces:
Now spray the two tag pieces LIGHTLY with tacky spray to cover the boards. Let set a few seconds (in fact I pick them up and fan them a little. You want the glue "tacky" not wet... Then mount on your complimentary to your stitched piece fabric for the "tag", gluing with white craft glue the sides to the back. Cut as much of the "extra" fabric off on the sides and particularly the corners as you are gluing the fabric to the back. WHY? Cutting the "extra" fabric off at the corners especially will help the pieces to lay flush.
They will end up looking like this:
Now we are measuring the center of the "tag" make a small mark on the fabric, please notice the two inch squares on my cutting mat and the dot in the center that I have place about 1/4 inch down from the edge.
using your Crop-O-Dile, bite and punch the circle:
It will end up looking like this:
Using the first bitten "tag" as a template, mark where to "bite" the back of the tag:
You will end up with two "tags" front and back like these, place the grommets and crimp
Step 9 :
Using Tacky Glue, spread it all around the edges of the tag and then sandwich together, paying attention to the very edges. I use a small paint brush (that I always have on hand) to spread the glue all the way to the edge.
*Helpful Hint*: you don't have to use gobs of glue...be a little sparing with it, that is one thing I have learned as I have "matured" in my finishing. A little goes a long way. See as I state all over this blog: finishing ~ its a process ~ and one is always learning.
Now layer (mount) the stitched piece on top of the tag. Use white craft glue to glue it down.
It will look like this:
Make some cording (see my tutorial The Cording... ) or use purchased cording, chenille, pom-poms, whatever dings your bell... generally lay it around the "face" (mounted stitched piece) and cut to size (be a little generous on your cut!) . Fold in half to find the center and pinch, then glue on the bottom center - laying a small line of glue first up one side to top center. Pin along the edge (if needed) with straight pins to hold in place (with twine and pom-poms you will need to use straight pins to hold it in place perfectly)
Continue to edge the stitching with the twine/cording around the face of the tag.
When you are done, it will look like this:
Step 12: Make a Bow, place a single dot of glue, and using a straight pin attach the bow to the ornament.
*helpful hint*: You will notice in my photos a small hammer (that I found in a scrapbooking section of the craft store) I use it to save my finger tips when pushing in pins in any of my finishing! Get one, your sore, bloody fingers will thank you! Mine did!
Now make the hanger, by taking twine or string, cutting a length, folding in half to find the center and pinch. At the fold pinch, shove it through grommet.
tie a knot in the end with the two "legs" of the hanger and thread it through the pinched center loop
Now you have a beautiful tag ornament that will hang STRAIGHT because of your sweet looped hanger! Isn't it beautiful and PERFECT!?
2-3 skeins of DMC white floss (for cording)
Complimentary Material for backing
Fiskars Circle Template (OR ruler and glass and/or bowl to act as a template to make curved top of ornament)
Stitch the ornament entitled "Snow Love" as directed in the pattern by Country Cottage Needleworks. The pattern may be purchased at your Needlework store of choice.
"Snow Love" is simply a flat ornament with a curved top to create an "arch". You may simply follow The Flat Ornament... to create your "Snow Love" creation. The only difference is you will use a Fiskars Circle Template (found in the scrapbooking section of any craft store) to help you make the arch part at the top of the ornament. The template looks like this:
You will choose the circle that will incorporate the entire width of the ornament then using the circle draw a half circle on the mat board. Then from the side of the half circle use your quadrant ruler to draw straight line down on either side then one across the bottom. Cut it out, use it as a template by drawing around it on the mat board to get the second back part of the ornament (to make the sandwich) . Then go about following the Flat Mounted Ornament instructions.
To make the cording, please follow: The Cording... tutorial. I used 4 lengths of 6-stranded DMC floss to create the cording for this ornament.
Red Material with tiny white polka dots (or your personal choice)
Green 1/2 inch Ribbon
Green 3/16 inch Ribbon (for hanger)
Polyester Fiber Fill
Large Quadrant Ruler/Self-Healing Cutting Mat
Chopstick (or long (12 in) dowel Rod) for stuffing
Stitch the ornament "Dear Santa" as directed using Country Cottage Needleworks design purchased from your Needlework Store of choice. "Dear Santa" is simply a pillow ornament. You may follow the general instructions for finishing a pillow ornament using the pictorial tutorial authored by myself on this site, entitled: The Pillow Ornament
*NOTE* I have piece a 2 1/2 piece of red/white polka dot fabric on the right-hand side of the ornament. After viewing The Pillow Ornament tutorial for general instructions and "know how" follow these simple steps to create your very own "Dear Santa" ornament.
Taking your completed stitched piece, Trim all sides to 3/4 inch from stitching. Cut a piece of the complimenting fabric for the right hand side to the same height as the ornament and 2 1/2 inches wide. Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance, sew the fabric to the right-hand side of the stitched piece. Press with iron.
Cut a backing piece and two pieces of fusible interfacing (one for front and one for backing). Set aside.
Take a length of 1/2 inch green ribbon, fit on top of the seam made from stitching the polka dot fabric, center it, then sew using a 1/16 inch seam along the edge of the ribbon next to the stitching, then again next to the polka dot fabric. Press lightly with iron.
Press the interfacing onto the back side of the stitched piece and the backside of the backing material.
Cut a length of 3/16 green ribbon (for the hanger) how ever long you want the hanger to be, I would suggest cutting about 8 inches and then play with the length before you sew it determining the length you want. Using pins, measure in 1/2 inch from top right and left hand corners of ornament. You will then pin the end of the ribbon on each corner, you will sew the ribbon into the seam. To do this make sure that your ribbon makes a "U" (from corner to corner) against the face of the ornament. When you sew the pillow ornament and turn it out the hanger will come out so that when it hangs it will be an upside down "U".
Use the tutorial "The Pillow Ornament.." to sew your ornament.
STUFF, STUFF, STUFF firmly using a chopstick to to get all the corners firmly stuffed.
**HINT** I firmly pack all four corners, paying attention to getting them heavily stuffed and pointy. Once all of the ornament is stuffed, turn your iron on steam and FROM THE BACKSIDE steam iron, pressing FIRMLY to shape and smooth the stuffing. This is a huge hint and one that I've learned from over the years. This will cut down on the "fatness" of your ornament, but will smooth the ornament perfectly.
Blind stitch your ornament closed. Steam Iron again to straighten any seams.
make a bow and tack it onto your ornament front as shown in picture above.